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Tech Help
1982 Honda CX 500 Tc Turbo
1983 Honda CX 650 Td Turbo
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Miscellaneous Hints, Tips, & Suggestions
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Turbochargers can be rebuilt, contrary to Honda's line.
Try the following leads:
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Mr. TURBO
Houston, TX 281-442-7113
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Southeast Diesel, Inc.
Chatanooga, TN 615-622-1006
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Diesel Injection & Electric Co.
Forest Park, GA 404-361-2222
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Turbonetics
Simi Valley, CA 805-581-0333
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Blaylock Turbochargers
Baxter Springs, KS.
If you are interested please be sure to contact
Marc A. Powe (
marc_blaylockturbo@hotmail.com
) directly for motorcycle related turbo work.
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If ever you remove your turbocharger, spend the extra
couple bucks for a new oil-feed line to the top of the
turbo, along with the corresponding O-rings. Our bikes
are over fifteen years old, and these oil lines have
been known to burst. And no oil to the turbocharger
= $$$$$$.
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When reattaching the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger,
use a high temperature anti-seize compound on the
stud bolts into the turbocharger.
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Tighten an oil pump chain to spec at its tightest
point in rotation, even if it means that it is out
of spec at its loosest point.
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Transform the steering feel of your Turbo! Dispense
with the stock front tire dimensions of 100/90 and
install a Metzeler ME33 Lazer 110/80 VB18. Someone
once gave me this advise, but I was leery to try it.
Then I bought a CX650T with this tire already in
place. WOW!! What a difference! Instead of fighting
the bike into a turn, I now virtually THINK it into
a turn!
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If your fork tubes are currently in good shape, a
quick wipe with a rag after every ride will
continue to keep the fork seals happy and leak-free.
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The expensive platinum tip spark plugs will last
much longer than the 2,000 mile replacement
interval stated in the manual. Just regap about
every 2,000 miles to keep the gap within spec.
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A strong, healthy battery is vital to the starting
of the CXT. ALWAYS fully charge a new battery after
filling it with electrolyte before putting it into
service. If you do not, you will NEVER have 100%
of the battery's cranking capacity, no matter how
much you charge it later.
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After breaking a sparkplug free, blow out
the sparkplug cavity with compressed air
and visually inspect for foreign matter
before removing the plug fully.
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It is possible to carefully split the main
fairing into its two halves, drop an additional
support bracket from the horn mount in the
center, and thus greatly reduce the effort,
preparation and time required for future
fairing removals.
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Some people have reported that the ECU can go
berserk somewhere above 10,000 feet in altitude, causing a sudden
drastic drop in performance. A quick off-on of the ignition
key will reset the computer, but good luck
getting over that pass! Rumor also has it
that this occurs because Japanese engineers
failed to factor in some of the higher roads
we have in America when programming the
parameters into the PROM over in Japan.
Just a rumor. Don't quote me on it.
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When the Pro-Link suspension fittings are not
regularly greased, all type of clicks and
squeaks can be heard from down there. Most
of us wait to hear these clicks before we
decide it is time to lubricate the Pro-Link.
At this point, wear has already taken place.
Unfortunately, it is a real pain to grease up
the works, as you have to completely disassemble the parts. As
long as you have it apart, why not install Zerk grease nipples?
You will never have to disassemble the Pro-Link
again. Just a quick squirt of the grease gun
every 10,000 miles, and you are off and riding
again. For a detailed plan of installing these
nipples, see issue #4 of TURBO NEWS.
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Never shut off a turbocharged bike immediately after
a hard run where heavy boost was used. The
turbocharger may experience "heat soak", continuing
to build up internal heat without the oil flow to
carry the heat away. Bearing failure or cracked
housings may occur. After a hard run, one or two
minutes of idling before shutting off the bike is
sufficient to cool to turbocharger. A couple
minutes of easy riding on surface streets on
the way home is also sufficient time after a
hard run.
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A service bulletin was issued regarding fork seals
on the CXT and '83-'84 VF700/750F. Fork seals are
updated, and the foam dust collector under the
dust boot should be removed.
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There is a service bulletin out for the front brake
master cylinder cap on the CX650T. Some may seep
brake fluid. Order a modified cap set, P/N 45540-MA6-621, Honda
code 1747146.
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There is a service bulletin out for the final drive
breather cap on the CX650T. Some may emit oil mist
through the cap. If after checking for the proper
oil level in the final drive unit, the cap still
emits oil mist, order the modified final drive
breather cap, P/N 41306-ME5-305, Honda code
1534924.
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Regarding the Turbo Diagnostic Tool Kit, specifically
the CX500TC/CX650T Inspection Adapter, P/N 07999-MC7-000,
Honda code 1204254 included in the aforementioned Tool
Kit: Some of these adapters were miswired, and will show
incorrect test readings of output voltage unless they
are rewired. Check for color-to-color continuity
between the pink, white, and green wires. If there
is color-to-color continuity, the adapter is good.
If not, remove the electrical tape from the female
connector. Depress the tabs, pull out the pink and
green wire terminals, and reconnect them in reverse.
Retape the female connector.
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Want to substantially increase the light output from
your headlamps? Run your high and low beams through
independent relays. There is room to mount these
behind the headlight assembly. Cut the blue and
white wires about four inches from the bulb socket.
Use the upstream ends (which come from the hi-low
switch on the handlebar) to switch two separate
relays. Run a 10-12 gauge wire directly from the
battery to each relay to provide power to each
filament. Bypassing the skimpy wire in the bike's
wiring harness in this way yields noticeably
brighter illumination. Don't think it would make
that big a difference? Right now, flip on you
bike's high beam, and run a 10-gauge wire direct
from the positive terminal of the battery to the
blue wire behind the bulb, and observe the
improvement!
Last Modified March 06, 2007, 18:41:38 Eastern Standard Time
Disclaimer
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